John LaCroix's Macassar/Englemann Classical [Pictures] - created 03-30-2004
LaCroix, John - 03/30/2004.20:25:10
I just finished my latest classical, this is my 7th. I found this piece of Macassar ebony at a local cabinet supplier's shop. The dimensions were approximately 4" x 4' x 1" thick. Since it was relatively cheap (as compared to a regular back & side set), I decided to go for it and make a 4 peice back.
The specs are as follows:
back/sides/headplate/bridge: macassar ebony
top: englemann
neck: mahogany
fingerboard: ebony
scale length: 652mm
width at nut: 53mm
bracing: 9 fan ala Cumpiano
tuners: shaller hauser w/ebony button
I wanted to make the fingerboard out of Macassar, but I broke the first set of bindings that I tried to bend. After making a second set the left over piece I had was too narrow.
a shot of the tail...
the head...
the front (not the greatest picture). I haven't figured out how to do good full frontal shots yet..
If it wasn't for ready made rosettes I would probably know how to make them by now!
detail of the heel...
One more - detail of the neck joint/upper bout...
I love striped/macassar ebony. How is it to work with? Gorgeous stuff.
Beautiful, John. Lovely guitar. I still haven't found the extra seams in the back!
I totally agree in this:
>If it wasn't for ready made rosettes I would probably know how to make them by now! <
They are nice, the rosettes from LMI.
So how about the sound. How do you like M. ebony soundwise?
And, its a nice guitar. Looks like a good clean job.
Anders
Very nice. If it is anything like the steel string I made with Macassar then it will sound great. Did you thin it more than usual? I was concerned about weight so went slightly thinner than I normally would.
I liked working with the Macassar. I do most of my plate thinning with a wagner safe-t-planer, so that spears my plane (and me!) most of the wear and tear. I finish of the thicknessing by hand with a plane. This wood was awesome - it had a sheen that looked like finish (reflected light) on it just by planning!
This was also my first experience re-sawing with my bandsaw. I would recommend re-inforced silicon steel blades if you have to resaw, they went throught the ebony like butter. I used that LMI wood epoxy for the back joints since I wasn't sure how the Macassar would glue up. I think titebond would have been fine.
I had some minor trouble bending. I use a sloan-type inside mould with a heating blanket - Al Carruth enlightened me here. At first I thought the ebony bended well. I did it just like rosewood, that is just with a spritz of water. I ended up with two small flat spots in the upper bouts. They are hard to see, I didn't even notice them until the instrument was assembled, oh well, live and learn. I also broke the first set of bindings I tried to bend. I soaked the second set for 15 min and they bent easily. The next time I use this wood I will soak the sides before bending (or thin them more).
Soundwise it has been strung up for less than 24 hours, but I would describe the sound as 'lush'. The trebles have a way to go, they aren't very focused at the moment, but the last spruce top I completed needed a couple of days for the high end to start to shine through. The top is a uniform 2mm thickness, so the responsiveness is there.
As for the thickness of the back & sides, I left them at a uniform 2mm. As for weight, the guitar weighs about 4 lbs, which is only 8 oz heavier than a cedar topped EIR guitar I built some time ago. I wish I had thinned it more, I might not have winded up with those flat spots in the upper bout I mentioned above.
Really nice looking guitar John. There was a discussion just recently about spruce topped classicals. How would you descibe the sound?
That's a real beauty! That Macassar looks great!
John: Great guitar. Is the finish French polish?
Beautiful guitar John! I like the white contrast you added to the binding. Very rich looking and great work.
Oh yeah, the finish is FP. I had a bit of trouble with the top. I was getting irregular buildup, so I would just block sand it with 1200/1500 grit and olive oil, and then resume bodying. Did this about 4 times before I was happy with it.
A real beauty John.
I have a question about the 4-piece back, yours looks good. I am planning one, and I was interested in how you glued it up.
I was thinking that I would re-saw the board a bit on the thick side to account for extra planing during the glue-up.
First I was going to glue up the outer joints, and then smooth them flat (extra material needed). Then glue the center seam, and one more round of planing. Is that how you did it, or am I being too conservative and should just glue the whole thing at once.
Chuck, did you see the recent "How-to' on four-piece backs in a recent
American Luthierie?
They show a very good way of doing it that keeps figured grain all moving in the same direction, it's very good.
Yea, I remember that now, thanks Mark. Though I'm still interested in how John did his. I will be using some beautiful, but narrow, ink-lined cocobolo stock that I figured would be very similar to work with to Mac.E.
Chuck,
I did resaw it on the thick side as you mentioned. After playing around with the grain arrangement I glued the off joints first. Then I measured & sliced off a piece from one of the outer edges to fabricate the center strip. I then glued up the side pieces with the center stripe. I used LMI's wood epoxy for all these joints, I don't think I would have dared to glue everything up at once. I didn't start planing anything until the glue had cured for a few days and I had cut out the back on the band saw. After that, I just worked it to about 2.4 mm with the safe-t-planer and the 'ol number 4 1/2 after that. I must have missed that American Lutherie article, I'll have to go back and read it.
Do you know what issue of AL that was in? I am curious and don't remember seeing the article.
It's in issue #76, winter 2003, in the "It worked for me" section in the back.
cool. Thanks.