MIMF

Hello,

I made my first multi-scale fretboard. I had to make a slotting tool first. Here's the tool and board.
I had a really old fret cutting tool from LMI from way back. It might have been their first iteration. I was able to use the important parts and make a miter box with a rotating center section. Here's a closer view.
I want a multi-scale guitar and I was nervous about this part of the build. I'm hoping it turned out OK. Its scales are 26.5" and 24.5" and it will be a 7-string neck.
I realize I can't check the true accuracy until I put it on a guitar and tune it up. That's a bit nerve-wracking. However, this rosewood board is my, "One to throw away." I didn't want to use one of my good ebony blanks for the first run of this tool. Here it is in use.
This is a naive guess on making a multi-scale. The layout took a very long time, as you all know. Any feedback, pointers, hints, and criticisms are very welcome. Here's one last shot just because.
-Eric

That's a super nifty adjustable miter box! On mine, I have toggle clamps to hold down the board and a bolt that locks the blade guide. I bet you could add those easily and it'll make the cutting go much faster.

As for accuracy, as long as your scales are layed out on your outside string paths, and you cut on the line, you should be fine. Have you played with fretfind2d? Google it: it makes playing with scales fun, and you can print out full-scale templates.

Jason Rodgers wrote:That's a super nifty adjustable miter box! On mine, I have toggle clamps to hold down the board and a bolt that locks the blade guide. I bet you could add those easily and it'll make the cutting go much faster.

As for accuracy, as long as your scales are layed out on your outside string paths, and you cut on the line, you should be fine. Have you played with fretfind2d? Google it: it makes playing with scales fun, and you can print out full-scale templates.

Thanks! I think toggle clamps will be in its future soon. I wanted to see if it would actually work first. I did use fretfind2d for the design. I drew it out myself instead of using the full-scale template as I didn't know how accurate they were. I will probably experiment with the templates now. That would save a lot of time.

Thanks for the comments on accuracy, I did cut on the lines and checked the lay out carefully. I need to hold my own guitar and hear the intonation myself before I'll be convinced, though. Soon(ish)! (Hopefully.)

-Eric

Nice jig man that's using the bean. Toggle clamps seem to slow me down so I devise verticlal cam type hold downs, which for me are easier.my .02

Greg Martin wrote:Nice jig man that's using the bean. Toggle clamps seem to slow me down so I devise verticlal cam type hold downs, which for me are easier.my .02

Thanks for the nice comment. Good point about toggle clamps. I'm not sure how it will evolve but I need something more. I like cams so I'll probably try that first.

-Eric

I like to print out my fanned fretboards 8" wide so I get a longer line to line up with. Using Fretfind2d, adjust your fingerboard edges to be 3+" wide on each side. I get them printed at FedEx/Kinkos on one of their 12" x 48" B&W printers for $2 per page.

David King wrote:I like to print out my fanned fretboards 8" wide so I get a longer line to line up with. Using Fretfind2d, adjust your fingerboard edges to be 3+" wide on each side. I get them printed at FedEx/Kinkos on one of their 12" x 48" B&W printers for $2 per page.

That's a great idea. Does this mean you have some spacers on each side of the fretboard to hold up the paper? And then do you have an adjustable miter box that big or do you freehand the cuts with a strait edge? I'm intrigued!

-Eric