MIMF

I like to have the recurve area of my tops and backs start off dead flat at the final edge thickness of 3/16". That makes it much easier to route clean binding channels and use body-shaped clamping cauls to assemble the box. Then I do the recurve after the box is together and the binding is on. I used to use a router to cut a 3/16" thick ledge around the perimeter before carving the rest of the plate. I've tried doing that both freehand and using a template and guide bushing on my router table. Both methods were very unpleasant. This time, I rough carved the outside of the whole top plate first, down to around 1/4" at the edges, then used my StewMac drill press planer (same idea as the old Safe-T-Planer) to level the recurve area. It worked great, and was much easier and more pleasant than routing. Just thought I'd share the idea.

I use the Safe-T-Planner, as you do. It was super easy, relatively safe and I felt like I had good control.

I've used my drill press planer to establish outer contours right along. I start with the edge about 5mm thick, just over 3/16". and trim the edges up to match the rib outline at that thickness. Then I use the Dremel purfling routing setup to cut a channel in from the edge the proper distance to establish the low point for the arch. This allows me to cut the recurve out to the low point while still leaving a narrow ledge, which is sufficient to guide the router for cutting the binding and purfling rabbets with the usual sort of binding router. I will say that I only recently worked out all the steps in this to my satisfaction, but it has worked well so far.