bending figured maple

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Re: bending figured maple

Postby John Sonksen » Tue Jun 05, 2012 9:41 am

Barry Daniels wrote:Runout is not really relevant to curly maple because the curl is runout. A backing metal strip may be helpful.

I tried using aluminum flashing and it just wouldn't stay in contact with the wood. As soon as I tried to bend it the wood would kink and tear right under the strip. It was actually easier for me to bend the one I did with no backing strip. That way I could visually monitor whether it was bending evenly. I may try a leather strap in the future as that seems flexible enough to maintain contact throughout the process.
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Re: bending figured maple

Postby John Sonksen » Sat Jun 09, 2012 9:41 pm

I finally had some success today. I think I didn't have my pipe hot enough actually, and I spent a little time messing with my torch until I got things just right. I kept the wood mostly dry but occasionally spritzed it with a spray bottle and took my time. The technique I used was no back band, I thinned out the wood where the most severe bends would happen and just used the weight of my hands to bend it. It's more about letting the weight of your hands pull it down when it wants to go, then it is trying to apply any bending pressure with your muscles. Like most things in woodworking, if you have to force it you're not doing it right.

Anyways, I'm very pleased with the result; this has been a long time coming...

Image

and after the bands came off:

Image
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Re: bending figured maple

Postby Bob Francis » Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:13 pm

Nice! 8-)
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Re: bending figured maple

Postby John Sonksen » Sun Jun 10, 2012 11:55 pm

Thanks Bob!
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Re: bending figured maple

Postby Rodger Knox » Mon Jun 11, 2012 3:11 pm

OK, John, now you know what I meant by the wood getting hot enough to "go plastic". Really easy once you get the feel.
Nice looking job. The veneer also gives you side grain all the way around, no end grain at the top & bottom.
A man hears what he wants to hear, and disreguards the rest. Paul Simon
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