My method for all of the electrics to this point (which includes flat topped Fender style, carved top Les Paul style and arched topped 335's) is to make the fret plane hit the top of the bridge when its adjusted as low as it can go. My argument is that (1) I never want the action lower than that, (2) relief and nut slots will raise the strings slightly, (3) most bridges have more than 1/8 adjustment so I can get the action high enough for playability. On Fender style guitar where I usually have more F/B radius I make sure that I can go low enough on the outside strings and high enough on the center ones to get my target action. (I also know on Fender style guitars that I can always shim the pocket if things don't work out LOL).
So my question here is how do each of you calculate that geometry while building the guitar? Do you have an arbitrary angle that you just set the neck to and know that your action will work or do you do some process during the build to check it as you go?
Here is an example - it is an archtop electric with a fairly significant dome to the top. The neck angle is 3-1/2 or 4 degrees (per Gibson). The neck stands proud of the body by a small amount now but can drop into the dovetail as I floss it (I'll put a wedge under the extension as needed). I'm using an archtop ToM bridge which is set as low as it will go (and is the same radius as the F/B). I've got 5 business cards on the F/B at two locations simulating the frets (about 0.050 total thickness). Can I glue the neck in?
