Checkerboard Binding

[Barry Daniels]

Although the acetone will wick in, I do not think it will provide adequate adhesion. But then I have never actually tried that technique with acetone. But yes, acetone will definitely dissolve the adhesive of masking or packing tape. You would have to use string or cord if you go this route.

Acetone is not poisonous. Some people may be sensitive to it but it is relatively benign compared to many other solvents. I liken it to alcohol in toxicity.

[Jason Rodgers]

Barry,
Thanks for the reply. It sounds like I'm better off leaving the inner binding ledge as-is and just taping the snot out of it. I've seen a similar technique of pre-taping the binding but then wicking in acetone vs. CA glue. I react badly to the fumes from CA, so I try to avoid it, but I suppose acetone is no less poisonous. I have some of the fiberglass reinforced packing tape, will the acetone just dissolve it? Taping purfling and binding in two steps sounds a lot less stressful!

Try a dry run with some of the tough tape Barry suggested. Lay down the easy curves, tape it, then bust out the heat gun to start moving around the tight turns, taping as you go. If it all works out, wick the glue in there and you got it.

Of the few binding jobs I've tried, I found some good suggestions for tape technique here. Cut a whole bunch of 3 inch or so strips and have them ready on the edge of your bench. When you put the tape on, alternate strips stretched up and down: hold the tape end firmly on the top, stretch it over the edge, and pull it down to secure it on the side; on the next one, hold the tape end firmly on the side, stretch it over the edge, and pull it up to secure it on the top.

Scrape or sand the inside edge of the binding strip a little so the point isn't fighting the inside corner of the channel. Also, what is your plan for finishing? Glue will soak into the grain, changing how finish covers, so seal it up with shellac if you're going natural.

[Alexander Higgins]

Thanks for suggestions, all. I thought about thinning the checker binding, though how I would do that accurately is a bit of a mystery. Stewmac sells a jig that works with a Robosander, pretty pricey. I suppose I could just scrape or sand it thinner. I think I'll try re-taping it and heating some more to try to get it to conform to the horns. It sounds like the consensus is: leave the routed ledge alone if it yields a flush fit everywhere but the horns.

I'll be doing a jet-black rattlecan laquer finish with clearcoat, so I'm not too worried about anything showing through. I did have to fill some nasty tearout divots, so I used Minwax "High Performance Wood Filler (wood colored bondo and sawdust, near as I can figure), that supposedly doesn't shrink. Looks good so far, hope it doesn't telegraph through later.

Question:
Should I be shooting for miter joints at the "points" of the horns? No way can either binding or purfling bend around those sharp horn points, so it's two pieces per body side, one "outside the horn,, one "inside". I was planning on using acetone-dissolved binding goop as an adhesive/filler at the joints. The alternative is to leave one end long and butt the next piece into it, but I thought a miter would look better and give more surface area to glue.

[Barry Daniels]

With solid color plastic binding the joint can be cut either way. Use the acetone with some binding shavings dissolved in it to glue the joint and then the joint will disappear.

[Greg McKnight]

I've bought checkerboard binding from these guys in the past: http://shop.custominlay.com/Checkerboar ... 70-78G.htm

[Dan Smith]

I've bought checkerboard binding from these guys in the past: http://shop.custominlay.com/Checkerboar ... 70-78G.htm

Thanks Greg!
Dan