Martin 1918 1-18

[John C. Moore]

Hi
I am planning to build a small body guitar, using the Ted Davis plans of a 1918 1-18. This original guitar was gut string, but I'd like to use steel strings. The bracing and top thickness do not seem much different from a steel string guitar.
Does anyone have any experience using these plans, or have any advice for key things to address to be sure the steel strings do not cause problems?
Thanks for any input
John

[Randy Roberts]

John,
I've not built from those plans but have made a few from a picture of an 1840 Martin that is essentially a size 1.

If you're going to make it steel strings, I'd recommend you use an X brace with around a 100 degree angle, and one tone bar with one finger brace each side. Remember you are working with a much smaller body and so you can take the top thinner, and the bracing a little lighter due to the shorter spans. I wouldn't make the soundhole any bigger than you have to(you still have to get your hand in there sooner or later).

Shortly after I had completed the first one, I had an opportunity to actually hear and play a little with the original guitar the picture had been taken of(ladder braced gutstrings). The approach described above, steel string using a cedar top and mahogany body, sounded so similar to the original it actually brought a few tears to my eyes.

I think I've still got pictures of the bracing if you'd like them.

[Michael Lewis]

Use modern bracing sizes if you are going to use steel strings. Gut (nylon) strings are fine with the light bracing as used in the older Martins, but steel strings need more support.

[Clay Schaeffer]

I haven't seen the Ted Davis plans up close (only the previews on the G.A.L. site) , but it looks like a good copy of the original design. I have had a couple of Martin size 1 guitars, one of which worked well with steel strings, and one which would only take nylon or gut.
I've also built a few of this model. For steel strings I would leave some wood in the top (.100" to .090") and use lighter bracing (1/4" X 1/2" for the "X" brace) The narrow lower bout gives a fair amount of stiffness so heavy bracing isn't needed. A slightly larger soundhole seems to work well, but the original size also works fine. I have built them with Martin's "long" scale (25.4") with good results.
They are great little guitars, and when built right don't lack for tone or volume.

[Darrel Friesen]

I built one out of pine a couple of challenges ago using the Ted Davis plans. I used steel strings on it so beefed up the bracing shown on the plans to 1/16" to 1/8" taller and 1/4" wide. I left the top at about .095". No bellying and it seems I could have gone even thinner. Strummed hard though, it has a lot of headroom. Works for the campfires I play at I haven't tried anything heavier than extra light strings on it, but it could probably handle it as is.

[John C. Moore]

Thanks Gents.

the plans use already an x-brace, and as suggested, I think I'll just beef up the braces a bit.

Thanks for all the quick input..

I've made the templates so am ready to go..

John