Erik Hokanson's Scrapwood Guitar (Pictures)

[Erik Hokanson]

I worked out a bunch of ideas with this, more or less.
red cedar top (shingle)
walnut sides (flatsawn) ruined the back, used alaskan yellow cedar (shingle)
purple heart here and there

Really loud, brash, like a cheap guitar. It is warming up considerably, but it will always have a boxy sound. Plays smooth and bendy, stays in tune. Next time I make one like this I'm going to keep the top a bit thicker, and make bigger. Brace is simple X. No photo of that. Worth the effort despite the result.

[Erik Hokanson]

Closer view of Bridge, tail,etc.

[Jason Rodgers]

Woa, that's funky cool! What are the scale lengths? Tell about the arching/doming you put on the top. Does one of the simple X's go under the bass side of the bridge? Any other fingers or tone bars? How about saddle height? Tell us more, fercryinoutloud!

[Josh Humphrey]

I love the design! It looks inviting to pick up and play, and loud and brash can be just what you need sometimes!

The body shape is fun- I like the sharp corners in the waist. I also enjoy the slotted headstock- nice work!

[Clay Schaeffer]

Fun looking guitar. It looks like something Larson would make................. Gary Larson.<g>

[Douglas Ingram]

I love scrap wood guitars and the sense of abandon that goes into making them. that fan fretting is pretty extreme!

[Erik Hokanson]

Thanky.
Scale lengths.
treble; 22 7/8
bass; 25
Thats the first big mistake. why did I not make 25, then 26 1/2 or 27"? I dont know.
I dont know what the dome is. ! have a twenty inch circle and the arch drops a half inch from the edges to the center, so whatever that works out to is how my stuff is arched.
the bridge actually sits in line with the X brace in there, which I suspect is another mistake that keeps this thing reeled in (yes, I know, fishing metaphores), I wonder if the bridge swung across the top they way it "should" the top would just be this wild, freeform vibrating monster, I'm doing all this to try and push it, the top and sides are way too thin. I'm learning lots.
Saddleheight? when I glued the back on, I stuck a shim under the end of the neck to ensure there would be some kind of neck angle, then after I got everything together, I put a stick on the frets, decided what would be a too high bridge, and started there, worked my way down until the thing plays the way it should, which in this case is just under 7/16". But these numbers are only relative to the rest of the system. the tailpiece is set so there is the minimal downbearing, to maximize volume, I don't know what the angle is, because again, it's all relative. It's how I build.
Also, about these cedar shingles, as tonewood. They are perfectly quartered, I've had them for years. they tap like bells. what a waste to put that yellow cedar on the back. that is a nice scrap of wood. If you see red or yellow cedar shingles, white cedar are often flatsawn, go through the stack and pick out the wide ones and smack em around, youll be surprised.

[Jason Rodgers]

When you say the bridge is "in line with the X brace," do you mean that it sits right on top of the brace? As in, the intersection of the X is under the bridge? Yes, that's probably putting too much stiffness right where you want the top to move. The X intersection typically sits about 1" beneath the soundhole, about 2/3 of the distance between the bridge and soundhole. Even in archtops using an X, the intersection is a couple inches in front of the bridge. This strengthens the area between the bridge and soundhole so it doesn't cave in, but allows flexibility beneath and behind the bridge. If you build another of these, and I think you should because it's cool, move the X forward a bit.

In terms of breakover angle and downbearing on the bridge, there is a balance: too little pressure, not enough vibration transfer; too much pressure, it impedes top movement. Since you might have a little too much stiffness under the bridge, a sharper breakover angle might give it the juice it needs.

This is all just guessin'...

[Erik Hokanson]

Dear Mr. Rogers,
The bridge actually sits ON the brace. Theres a simple X in there, and because this is a fan fret monster, the bridge is perfectly in line with one of the braces. Right where it should not be. Adding some downbearing might help. I'm realizing that this is another mistake. Damn. At least the set up makes it easy and fun to play.
I'm well on the way with the next one, I dispensed with the fan fret business, in the interest of intonation, the thing is a bit bigger, and I'm leaving things a little thicker.
This pic is not the guitar in question, its the new one, but I braced it exactly the same way, I'm feeling that this will work better because the brace will not sit on the brace, but a little south of the X, as you suggest. I'm not sure that the bridge will be south enough.
Thanks for these comments.
I'm getting better at this.

[Jason Rodgers]

I'm glad it's a good player. If you're not thrilled with the sound, throw a piezo in the bridge and you might be able to dial in some plugged-in tone.

Alas, the X on the new plate is probably still too close to the center of the lower bout. Of course, you're using a floating bridge, and that setup works and sounds differently than a flat-top with a pin bridge. Either way, try to pass the lower legs of the X under the feet of your bridge.

[Erik Hokanson]

I think I agree. I might very well carve all that bracing off and start again.. There is time.

[Ron Daves]

Hey Erik
Bravo! NIce work.

[Jason Rodgers]

It's hard to tell from the picture, but is that a reinforcement ring around the soundhole? If so, slide your X right up to it, or closer (even as close as those A braces beside the soundhole). This will result in shorter upper X legs and longer lower X legs. Then you can fill in other big spaces with other braces.

[Matthew Lau]

Dude,

I like your esthetic style.
The bracing could provide more support behind the bridge, but nice attempt.

Where do you find your scrapwood?

[Erik Hokanson]

The pic of the bracing shown will be a guitar with tailpiece/floating bridge, I think the placement of the X is basically in the right place, Yes?, the bridge will sit just south of this X.
Ive had this wood kicking around in my life for years, I harvested the shingles off the jobsite, and the neckwood was left over from other projects. The walnut is a big scrap I scored out of a dumpster (who throws that away?)
This gives me the freedom to be reckless, and to fail. Learning what not to do, and why, is very instructive, and in the meantime I hone my scraping skills. If this piece were Rosewood/Adirondack, I'd be horrified. But this is time well spent.

[Matthew Lau]

I stand corrected.

Thanks!

-Matt

Ps. On the old MIMF, there was a thread that goes "
101 reasons why luthiers make bad roofers."

[John Fabel]

Go team! I seem to recall an interview w Zappa where he wa asked " so what drives you to take make the music you do?" and his answer was something like "the world already has plenty enough of ba boom boom bap, ba boom boom bap".
JF