Todd Stock wrote:Channels milled with the SM and LMII bits, the Williams jig, and cleanup with a cutting gauge on the upper back where the slope will reduce channel depth by 10-15 thou. Fox-bend binding with side purfs, making sure to break the edge (outer-upper and inner-lower) for good fit. Tail block end joints on binding and purfs cut before install, and the neck-end joint cut on glue-up to avoid having to estimate the additional length needed with glue, etc. Binding/purfs go on with fish (good tack and very long open time), taped on with strapping tape (shoot a coat of shellac on the body prior to milling the binding channels to eliminate fiber tear-out from tape), then use the long rubber bands on a tie-down jig (3/4" ply at net shape for body, deck screw every inch, and 1/4" cork at edge of body...1/2" wide works well). The bands apply a few hundred pounds of pressure and bring the binding into even the worst-to=bind sections (like Florentine back binding in the cut) to accommodate dome of back or top.
Yes - more fixtures, but have not had even a hint of trouble with gaps, etc. in the decade since going to this approach. Archtops get a higher cork rim, but bind up the same.
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