CA for side purfling?

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Kary Karahadian
Posts: 121
Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2012 6:34 pm
Location: California

CA for side purfling?

Post by Kary Karahadian »

any bending problems with side purflings that have been attached to bindings with CA? or is PVA a better choice?

kary
Steve Senseney
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Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2012 2:45 pm

Re: CA for side purfling?

Post by Steve Senseney »

Hot hide glue is very heat resistant to heat. On the other hand, if you use PVA glue, and heat it, you can get the glue joints to move easily if is is needed..
Kary Karahadian
Posts: 121
Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2012 6:34 pm
Location: California

Re: CA for side purfling?

Post by Kary Karahadian »

thanks Steve. seems like CA would be so easy and quick to use for this purpose. wondering how it would react in the bender.
Randy Roberts
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Location: Omaha, NE (a suburb of Iowa)

Re: CA for side purfling?

Post by Randy Roberts »

Kary,
Usually side purflings are done up as layered sheets, kinda like plywood, and then the individual bindings and the attached purfling are sliced off this "plywood" plank. I don't see where CA would be particularly useful in this setting.
If you are talking about attaching a purfling to an individual binding strip, one at a time, then I'd think it would be easiest to not attach them together until you are installing the binding anyway and glue the purfling while you are gluing the binding.
Kary Karahadian
Posts: 121
Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2012 6:34 pm
Location: California

Re: CA for side purfling?

Post by Kary Karahadian »

Randy,
I lay up the purfling scheme (b-w-b in this case), then slice individual strips off of that. i've got some individual koa bindings that i'll be adding these strips to. Then into the bender. i've used Titebond in the past, but it seems that CA would allow the process to go a lot faster. just don't know how the CA joint would hold up under the heat.
Chuck Tweedy
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Location: San Diego, CA

Re: CA for side purfling?

Post by Chuck Tweedy »

Kary, the good thing about using Titebond for this process is that it re-sticks to itself after heating.
This needs expaination because I can already feel the flames coming.
When dry, Titebond is a plastic of sorts, and it melts at high temperature like any other plastic. If you have something (like say a bridge) glued down with Titebond, and you heat the bridge, the glue will soften (AKA melt) and release. After the film of melted glue re-hardens, then new, wet Titebond will not stick to it...

BUT

Two surfaces covered in Titebond that are BOTH melted can be re-joined, and they stick like hell. This is what is going on when you bend binding that has side-laminations. You (I) tape them all together with the laminations jammed together under the tension of the tape. In the bender, these laminations actually loosen from the binding, but since everything it bound together with tape (like a fasces :-) ) it all bends together, and re-bonds together when the whole thing cools.
You will notice some slight mis-alignment of layers when you bend binding like this, but they are all still stuck together. This is because they SEPARATED when hot and re-bonded together slightly out of alignment.

I don't think this happens with CA.
Why mess with something that works? Make a binding log with Titebond like, any old binding log, cut it up into strips, and bend it. What is wrong with that?? It works really well.
Likes to drink Rosewood Juice
Arnt Rian
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Re: CA for side purfling?

Post by Arnt Rian »

I have sometimes used CA to glue side purflings to individual binding strips (like when I slice bindings off side blanks, otherwise its better to make a "log" and slice bindings from that, as has been mentioned). They will sometimes fall apart, but I don't worry too much about it, as long as I can get them installed, they will be adequately glued along with everything else. I usually pore fill with CA glue anyways, so I figure it will fill any small gaps, and solidify the side bindings too. The reason for gluing the to the bindings, and not installing them separately, is that it can be quite tricky to bend them sideways, especially in tight bends like in the waist area, or a cutaway, and they may wrinkle a bit. And with single line wooden purflings, in some fragile tropical veneer, the whole operation can become very finicky and time consuming. It all becomes much easier if they are glued and bent along with the bindings, even if the glue line fails here and there.
Steve Senseney
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Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2012 2:45 pm

Re: CA for side purfling?

Post by Steve Senseney »

There are always multiple ways to accomplish any task.

I have seen some really nice purflings on old guitars glued with nothing more than Hot hide glue, with excellent results.
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