Finish Help

[Tyler Grender]

I'm new here and starting my first build. I'm just looking for advice and possible things to look out for when I'm finishing the body.

Here's my plan:
http://Www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/w ... echniques/
This site shows how I will be finishing the wood (#6 on the site), but I don't know if these steps will work the same going from cabinets to a guitar. Here are the basic steps:

1. After sanding the body, I will apply the jet black stain. If I need to I'll apply 2 coats.
2. Apply sealer.
3. Apply pickling white gel stain across grain and wipe off immediately.
4. Apply sealer.
5. This is where I'm stuck. I'd like to hear input on the first 4 steps, but now I want to add my clear coat. Has anyone tried solarex uv resin? Or is there a cheaper or easier way to get that similar gloss finish?

I don't have spray guns or a buffer, so any advice is greatly appreciated!

[Steve Sawyer]

Still working on MY first build, Tyler, but I'm interested in the replies you get. In case someone doesn't mention it, I'm wondering if using resin (e.g. System 3 Silvertip) as a filler at that point would be a good idea, as ash has those open pores to deal with.

That's a beautiful treatment you're going with BTW. I'm bookmarking this thread just so I don't lose that link!

[David King]

Your best bet for a clearcoat you can brush would probably be general finish's endurovar or equivalent. It sands really nicely and buffs reasonably well. We had a nice long thread on it recently: http://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4092

Option B might be West 105/207 finishing epoxy. They both have an amber tone. I'd test both for adhesion because they are both fussy about going over oil finishes and stains, especially the Endurovar.

If you have time and don't mind the stink then a quality spar varnish (minwax is good) or just rattle-can Mohawk clear lacquer will get you there eventually and both are easy to find locally (except in Cali).

[Jason Rodgers]

I've been seeing some pretty cool contrasting grain fills recently, with all sorts of colors being used. Of course, the most common would be black, but white sure looks cool, and I've seen red and even glow in the dark! Mayones has been doing cool stuff.

Can't remember where I saw the link, but I came across a youtube video of a guy doing a red hand-rubbed dye with black pore fill. For the pore fill, he first rubbed black acrylic paint (just typical, art store paint) onto the bare wood, working into the pores, then sanded the surface clean. Then, he did a usual Transtint or whatever dye job on it. Looked cool. For a lighter colored pore fill, you'd do it the other way around, like your link instructs, but obviously the pore filler would need to be wiped off in a hurry.