Titebond won't set up

[Simon Magennis]

Really interested in hearing if you get to the bottom of this. Titebond original or some other titebond? Is there any possibility that some cutting tool has dumped contamination onto the surface of the wood?

I use both hot glue (bone rather than hide because that is what is available here) and Titebond Original. Never used any of the other titebond varieties. For critical jobs I use a fairly fresh bottle of glue - current one (thanks to the link) is Feb last year and I opened it a couple of weeks ago.

I am using the end of a 2012 bottle for not critical stuff such as jigs. Both grab quickly - no difference that I can see. I began this "policy" of new glue for critical joints some time a go as a result of a comment here some years ago. However in the past I never even gave it a second thought and I reckon most glues work good enough for my amateur projects after many years - so long as it still flows and feels sticky. I have also used various other brands of white and yellow glues without issue however I am a low volume, amateur user so really little experience. Probably not more than a gallon or two in my life time.

My glueing temperature has never fallen below 60F and storage never below 50F.

Looking forward to updates.

[Clay Schaeffer]

Hi Ryan,
I've had titebond joints fail when the temperature is below 60 degrees. If it dries, it has a chalky appearance, and the joint is not strong. If you let your shop cool off at night the wood may become chilled and if not warmed up cause the same problems. For wider joints (3/4 inch +) even relatively old glue has worked fine.

[Stephen Neal Saqui]

I agree, Clay, and always warm up the parts after a cold night!