There's a catch here: any finish that penetrates the wood and allows the light in will increase the color saturation, making it look darker, even if the finish itself is water clear and transparent. It's just in the nature of things that it shows up more on lighter colored woods. Traditionally the finishes that bring out the beauty of the wood best are clear and have about the same index of refraction as the cellulose itself, so that light reflects from the structure of the wood rather than the finish. Traditional oil-resin varnishes, or modern analogs, seem to do this best. Linseed oil itself also comes close. Shellac and nitrocellulose lacquer are not as 'deep' in that way, and can look 'veiled' by comparison, because the IR is not right. To my eyes UV cure polyester has too high a refractive index. This gives it a very reflective surface, but doesn't get the light into the wood: it's an impressive surface, but there's not as much under it.
The water born finishes I tried years ago tended to just sit on the surface. Usually the instructions tell you to seal the wood with something like epoxy or shellac, but if you leave that out you get a surface film with no penetration. The water is what actually wets the wood, so when it's gone the finish is not able to conduct light into the wood. Again, the 'veiled' look, but it certainly is white on white wood.
Personally, I'd find the clearest oil-resin varnish I could, and use that. There will still be plenty of contrast, since the dark wood will be color saturated as well, and you'll see the wood much better. At the moment I'm using Murdoch's Ure-alkyd 500 floor finish, from Sutherland-Welles, and it look great. It's almost as hard as nitro. The main issue I'm having is getting it to harden reliably on some oily woods, including some you don't think of as oily, such as Macassar ebony. Sealing the surface with CA seems to work, and doesn't look veiled to me.