MIMF

Yes, the built up solera has been working for me. I still plane the arches for the top and back dome into the braces. I simply swap out the cork shims for the 2 steel strings and 2 nylon string guitars I build. I could use everything, including the Torres side bending form, as is and make adjustment...

Thanks. I guess it comes down to how I want to build it. This would be exclusive to the 1943. I'd still have my Cumpiano workboard. I remember my first guitar. I was so surprised it was playable. I just followed the book. I just made two molds for Early Romantic guitars. They'll have dovetail neck j...

I recently built tops for two Early Romantic guitars. One is traditionally braces, with added 2mm arch carved into the bracing of the lower bout, the other is a five fan braced top, domed 3mm in the lower bout, for a guitar increased from 11.75" to 13" lower bout. The larger guitar will ha...

I've been looking for an excuse to buy the little Bridge City Mini block plane with depth skids. I could make a jig with a plane blade and pull the binding under the blade while adjusting the cut/scrape depth, but that little block plane is really cool.

That's a keeper!

Everyone I ask says these guitars have no longitudinal arch in the top.

I build the 1888 Torres guitar following the Cumpiano book to the letter: 0 neck angle, top dome planed into the lower harmonic brace, assembled "free style." I use molds for my steel string guitars. I'm thinking I would like to make a solera with sides for the 1943 Hauser plan. My questio...

That's really great advice, Allen. Thank you. I remember Rik Middleton's book mentions inserting purfling in a gap left between the side and the binding strip when using matched offcut binding from the sides. He leaves a gap when glueing the binding. Really complicated. I don't think he bent the pur...

Dana Bourgeois, 00‑12 Fret Coupe. Add a "0" and Bob's your uncle. I recommend 12 fret guitars. I'm interested in the 12 fret, slope shoulder Dreadnaught guitars.

Yes. I use a really low angle when I pull the blade across the veneer. A curved blade would definitely improve the cut edges of the purfling strips. Thanks.

I'm assuming the Vienna style Hauser guitars have very little transverse arch in the top. What I can't see is a longitudinal arch in the top. There is a pronounced longitudinal arch in the back.

Thanks, Barry. I'll let you know how it works out.

I've been using a razor knife to cut veneer strips for purfling. It works okay when I carefully make multiple passes. Is a veneer saw a better tool to use for this. The veneers are usually stacks of 0.010 and 0.020 dyed maple. Thanks.

Is there a longitudinal arch in the tops of these guitars?

I cut it on a table saw and set up a fence on the spindle sander. Is this wrong? It seems to work okay. Is there a better way?

IGaging 24" or 36" Precision Straight Edge! They have a flat edge and a tapered edge with lots of precise little markings.

That is a beautiful set of Walnut. Beautiful rosette, too. As I have taken a vow of Rosewood and Maple only, I must look away. Great job.

Thanks. For sunburst finishes I use a 30×1×3 and generously apply the tobacco brown toner. These will have really silky Kermodie Lutz tops. They're to nice to hide under a burst. Thanks for your help.

The top I'm using is so nice, I'm hesitant to use any dye on it. Maybe a couple of coats of blonde shellac to seal it before the lacquer clear coats. The Mahogany might be happy with some dark pore fill and a slathering of garnet bug vomit before I blast it with toxic aerosols. That's about all the ...

Dang, the mosaic planner site is gone.