MIMF

As the others said, the rule is a guide but I never cut wood based on it. When I do a new spacing combination, I always draw the strings from nut to saddle then draw the appropriate fingerboard under it. When I'm sure it's right, then I cut wood. I do my fingerboard drawings on a good piece of poste...

Sometimes, it helps to make the side a little thinner where a tight bend is required.

Netflix has the 1950's Flat and Scruggs tv show available for instant viewing. It's wonderful.

Generally, you rout from the wide part of the body to the narrow, section by section, to avoid chipout. That means you have a climb cut for some sections. You have to keep a tight and controlled grip on the router. A lot of scrap practice is good.

I bought a Ridgid 18v cordless a few years ago. It is the best drill I have ever owned, corded or cordless. It's a bit heavy but that helps it stay seated in the head when driving screws. And, it has a lifetime warranty, including the batteries. That purchase resulted in my buying a few more Ridgid ...

I keep my page on "View Unread Posts" and refresh it when I come back to the computer. After a few hours of inactivity, it requires me to log on again when I refresh. The repeated log ons were not required before the update this weekend.

I use the pipe. For me, bending by hand is both satisfying and fun. It took me a couple of guitars to get it down but I wouldn't even consider a machine. Depending on the wood (and cutaway vs none), it takes me from 30 to 60 minutes to bend a set.

Can you string it up and see how things land before you make modifications? If it ends up close enough, that might be better than making big changes and risking damage.

If you add 10/64" to get an action height of 5/64 at the 12th fret, subtract 1/64" because your top will pull up with string tension (more or less depending on how stiff you made the top), you get a saddle height of 15/64" or just below 1/4". My ideal is a string height of 1/2" (plus or minus a fudg...

It's not that hard to make a slotted headstock the traditional way. Many of the guitarmaking books have instructions. Make one or two on scrap wood and then go for it. Just doing it is likely to be quicker and have a better outcome than trying to find a shortcut. I made a jig for routing the slots. ...

I use the StewMac binding router bits with the bottom bearing, a small handheld router (a Ridgid at the moment) with a donut base, and cut my ledges freehand with no jig. You might try it on scraps and see if you can do it. It only requires that you keep the axis of the router parallel to the sides ...

Perhaps more work now, but if you use the cement board and do it right, it will outlast you.

My light dimmer is 600 watts. My charcoal lighter is 500. I mounted the dimmer and the outlet in a metal box just in case but the combination has caused no problems.

My pipe is about 1/4" thick aluminum. It heats pretty well all around. I guess a thin pipe could have a hot spot.

The ones I have seen have a flange that nails to the studs. The sheet rock goes over the flange. I have seen many, many of the plastic ones with cracks after a few years. For the shower I installed a year ago, I looked and agonized over the choices for a long time and finally went with the tile. The...

I think you want the element to contact the inside of the pipe pretty solidly to transfer heat. There's no reason you can't make a big bend on a smaller radius pipe. I do all of my bending on the same 2.5" pipe from the violin c-bout to the sides on the biggest jumbo guitar I build.

You can buy the book directly from David for quite a bit less (ukuleles.com).

I worked with the tea leaves a few times. I figured out that I got to exactly the same place as when I tapped and carved. I haven't done the tea leaves in a long time.

I found when I had the volume loud enough to really make the tea leaves dance that I wanted hearing protection.

Why worry about it. If it breaks, you can get another for $10. It probably won't break.